What is black and dangerous and sexy and glamorous and worn by the coolest icons of the world from Marlon Brando in the 50s to Kelly Jones today? A defining leather jacket. Albert Einstein said that a good leather jacket can solve the coat problem for many years. I think it can solve the identity crisis problem just as well. For an outerwear that finds its origin in German military during World War 1, the not-so-humble leather jacket has had quite the stay.
How has the leather jacket stood the test of time and relevance and is universally a coveted part of any self-respecting wardrobe?
It has the vintage appeal - Manufactured as a utilitarian jacket for German aviators (Hitler also wore one) back in the 20s, the leather jacket has successfully transcended decades with by and large zero cosmetic changes. The pragmatic bomber jackets of WW 1 that came with sturdy fleece linings for warmth and protection gave way to the Schott Perfecto biker jacket in 30s (we'll visit the types in detail in the next section) which was immortalised by Hollywood and rockstars alike from Marlon Brando in The Wild One to The Ramones. The historic jacket was later adopted by the racers and got revamped to their sleeker sportier avatar. They may have seen transient moments of spikes, patches, studs and fringes, but whatever the style, whatever the era, leather jackets are an enduring image in our minds.
It has the swagger - Leather jackets have transformative powers on your body, like a well-tailored suit or high heels. They have potentially intimidating appeal and a solid 'don't-mess-with-me' vibe. They are your understated (or over-stated? good question!) invite into the cool-clan. And even though I would say they are meant for people with well-defined personalities, they can go a long way in helping you create one, even just for a night.
It is truly iconic - Just like sneakers, leather jackets are inextricably associated with youth subcultures. Pilots, gunmen, greasers, motorcyclists, punk-rockers, metalheads, Hell's Angels, goths, rebels, supermodels have all worn the jacket through time as veritable second skin and made it a bit their own. So when you buy one today, you can choose who you want to be from the list above or very well be all of them.
Indiana Jones (brown goatskin), Tyler Durden (red lambskin) , Maverick (black fleece) - literally the best people in cinema or reality have deified the leather jacket. And those beyond the best practically live in them (I really think this blog is turning into a Hedi Slimane PR stunt). Leather jackets are hot investment pieces and highly personal little luxuries. Plus, they are step 1 towards creating the now trendy 'lean wardrobe'.
Which brings us to our next question - how to we go about finding the right one? It relies on 3 potential deal-breakers.
1. Construction - Form, form, form. Leather jackets are insanely about choosing the right type that goes with your body and your personality and everything in between. By and large there are 3 kinds of leather jackets you will come across - the Bomber, the Biker and the Racer and all 3 will be extensions of your character - SO CHOOSE WISELY.
1) The Bomber
The orginal 'flight' jackets are defined by their waist length, a contrast inner lining and a turn down collar. The sleeves and waist will cinch tight, usually elasticised. They are the most functional leather jacket variety with greater focus on the inside (protective linings - originally meant to keep aviators warm high up) and lesser frills on the outside. They come with a front zip.
2) The Biker
Or your classic, top of mind jacket - the one you picture when you hear 'leather jacket'. Made with full grained leather, they stand out with their asymmetrical front zipper, narrow faist, flared collars, large lapels and more external hardware. A true symbol of rebel clothing, the classic rider jacket was perfected by Schott Perfecto - the name you must memorise right now if you belong to the Biker category and iconised by Marlon Brando, James Dean, John Travolta, and as of 2000 and late - Kanye West.
3) The Racer
Or the 'moto-cross' is the sportier brother of the Bomber and the Biker and the most minimalistic of the lot. Recognisable by its snug figure-hugging shape, barely any frills (zips, studs, pockets) and a small snap collar, it comes in rich leathers. It was originally designed for reducing drags during high-speed racing but today is probably the dressiest of the leather jackets, potentially replacing a tux.
But the hunt for the right construction doesn't end at the jacket style. Once you choose your type, get into the details. Check the quality of external stitching (thickness of the thread and no loose ends), internal lining (a good quality lining material will not tear or be flimsy looking when you take off your jacket) and hardware (the zippers, buttons and buckles should be in a single metal grade and not look worn out). A good leather jacket does not come cheap, so get the bang for the buck.
2. Materials - Leather jackets are made of tanned animal hide and thus next thing on the consideration list is the type of skin and the grain of leather. There are 4 popular skins used for leather jackets - cow, calf, goat and lamb - in order of increasing preference (easy right?).
Bovine or cow leather is great on durability but is tough and less flexible and thus hard to wear. Calfskin is a very good alternative as it is softer, fine grained and more pliable. Goatskin is both durable and supple at the same time and noticeable by its pebbly feel but the crown goes to lambskin as far as smoothness and lightness go, even though it might not be super durable (but hey, we are only going to wear them to parties right?). Lambskin makes the most versatile and luxurious jackets and celebrities are in love with them.
Once the animal has been chosen, comes the grain of leather - highly Masters in Leather Design kind of stuff, but to tell you simply - top grain leather is the best version to buy as it takes the whole outer hide of the animal but is smoothened, made waterproof and accentuated for flexibility. All top designers and brands work with top grain leather.
A word on PVC - PVC is the cheapest and most durable alternative to all kinds of leather and you can see it practically seizing the genuine leather market these days, be it jackets or handbags. Though they will definitely reduce your upfront jacket buying cost, it wouldn't last, wouldn't keep you warm enough and will mostly come with uncomplimentary looking linings and hardware. Hence, as with all little luxuries, better to save and invest in genuine leather. And I'll give you some great affordable options at the end of this post.
3. Fit - I cannot stress this enough, the fit of a leather jacket can make it or break it for you. Spend a good amount of time trying them feeling them on you before you make a pick. And to help you do the same, there are 2 rules to follow.
1) Start with a size smaller - Leather jackets are one of the few fashion garments that look totally sloppy oversize. Read the title of this post - a leather jacket is meant to fit you like second skin so in my opinion, get a size smaller. Chances are you will fit into it and as time passes, the leather will expand to adjust better to your frame and viola, you'll look and feel like a rockstar.
2) Choose as per your body shape - Skinny guys can happily go for tight fitter motorcycle jackets that are cinched at the waist and thus more flared up at the top that makes them look more broad-shouldered. Not so lanky guys can do much better in a bomber or racer style, i.e. straight fits that can be snug or easy-fitting.
Other ideas to get a better a jacket fit are high-cut armholes, sleeves that end at the wrist and not zipping up the jacket. Remember it takes one mistake to make a cool leather jacket look unattractive so don't rush this part.
So now to my favourite part - my personal Anna Wintour moment where I will advise you on where to get a good leather jacket for Fall/Winter 2016. 8 fantastic options - 5 under $800. Woohoo!
1. Schott NYC
because Irving Schott invented the biker jacket, the Schott Perfecto and are the highest on credence for cool as illustrated by Hollywood. They have all 3 styles available in a variety of material and color combinations here. By far your best bet.
2. Top Man
for really good quality but really affordable leather and faux leather jackets and the best pick if you are looking for something for a few seasons only. Buy them here. Most options are under $300.
3. Belstaff
a British outerwear brand with motosport heritage, great tailoring and some of the best polished leather racer options. Buy here.
4. All Saints
another British brand known for its premium leather and design-led product innovation and is worn by most modern day Britpop musicians from Stereophonics to Robbie Williams. Great for hybrid options. Buy it here.
5. Diesel
has some real nice distressed, worn-in feel leather jacket options and Diesel always does great things with hardware. Buy here.
Ok now let's multiply up the dollars and see some real covetable luxe leather jackets options:
6. Rick Owens
most desirable in aesthetics and production. There are endless high-street interpretations of his technologically advanced creative take on the leather jacket. His skinny, rock and roll, high collar bikers in calfskin are the luxe pieces you will hold on to for years. $1500 and above.
7. Givenchy
known for its dark, goth aesthetic, Givenchy is naturally a strong contender for top of the line leather jackets. Known for their signature roomy luxy feel, shoulder epaulettes and contrasting neoprene sleeves, you can get your hands on these made-in-Italy luxe pieces upwards of $3000.
8. Balmain
brand of the moment! Stunning details in Balmain style, lots of OTT hardware and those quilted sharp shoulders, these lustworthy leather jackets come upwards of $4000.
You can buy all three on Mr Porter.
Your search for a perfect, made-for-you, beautiful leather jacket for this Fall should end right here. I am totally partial for a good leather jacket (as evidenced from the length of this post) and hope to see a lot of you rocking them soon!
P.S - ODed on a lot of Britpop while writing this post to get into the groove of things and discovered some nice 8tracks playlists like this one!
 |
| Marlon Brando in his classic Schott Perfecto in The Wild One |
How has the leather jacket stood the test of time and relevance and is universally a coveted part of any self-respecting wardrobe?
It has the vintage appeal - Manufactured as a utilitarian jacket for German aviators (Hitler also wore one) back in the 20s, the leather jacket has successfully transcended decades with by and large zero cosmetic changes. The pragmatic bomber jackets of WW 1 that came with sturdy fleece linings for warmth and protection gave way to the Schott Perfecto biker jacket in 30s (we'll visit the types in detail in the next section) which was immortalised by Hollywood and rockstars alike from Marlon Brando in The Wild One to The Ramones. The historic jacket was later adopted by the racers and got revamped to their sleeker sportier avatar. They may have seen transient moments of spikes, patches, studs and fringes, but whatever the style, whatever the era, leather jackets are an enduring image in our minds.
 |
| The original WW1 bomber jacket - designed to keep aviators warm |
It has the swagger - Leather jackets have transformative powers on your body, like a well-tailored suit or high heels. They have potentially intimidating appeal and a solid 'don't-mess-with-me' vibe. They are your understated (or over-stated? good question!) invite into the cool-clan. And even though I would say they are meant for people with well-defined personalities, they can go a long way in helping you create one, even just for a night.
 |
| English band - Stereophonics Leather jackets are uniform for British indie pop/rock bands |
 |
| John Travolta symbolised the greaser sub-culture in his biker jacket |
Indiana Jones (brown goatskin), Tyler Durden (red lambskin) , Maverick (black fleece) - literally the best people in cinema or reality have deified the leather jacket. And those beyond the best practically live in them (I really think this blog is turning into a Hedi Slimane PR stunt). Leather jackets are hot investment pieces and highly personal little luxuries. Plus, they are step 1 towards creating the now trendy 'lean wardrobe'.
 |
| Designer uniform - Hedi Slimane, Creative Director of Saint Laurent |
Which brings us to our next question - how to we go about finding the right one? It relies on 3 potential deal-breakers.
1. Construction - Form, form, form. Leather jackets are insanely about choosing the right type that goes with your body and your personality and everything in between. By and large there are 3 kinds of leather jackets you will come across - the Bomber, the Biker and the Racer and all 3 will be extensions of your character - SO CHOOSE WISELY.
1) The Bomber
The orginal 'flight' jackets are defined by their waist length, a contrast inner lining and a turn down collar. The sleeves and waist will cinch tight, usually elasticised. They are the most functional leather jacket variety with greater focus on the inside (protective linings - originally meant to keep aviators warm high up) and lesser frills on the outside. They come with a front zip.
2) The Biker
Or your classic, top of mind jacket - the one you picture when you hear 'leather jacket'. Made with full grained leather, they stand out with their asymmetrical front zipper, narrow faist, flared collars, large lapels and more external hardware. A true symbol of rebel clothing, the classic rider jacket was perfected by Schott Perfecto - the name you must memorise right now if you belong to the Biker category and iconised by Marlon Brando, James Dean, John Travolta, and as of 2000 and late - Kanye West.
3) The Racer
Or the 'moto-cross' is the sportier brother of the Bomber and the Biker and the most minimalistic of the lot. Recognisable by its snug figure-hugging shape, barely any frills (zips, studs, pockets) and a small snap collar, it comes in rich leathers. It was originally designed for reducing drags during high-speed racing but today is probably the dressiest of the leather jackets, potentially replacing a tux.
But the hunt for the right construction doesn't end at the jacket style. Once you choose your type, get into the details. Check the quality of external stitching (thickness of the thread and no loose ends), internal lining (a good quality lining material will not tear or be flimsy looking when you take off your jacket) and hardware (the zippers, buttons and buckles should be in a single metal grade and not look worn out). A good leather jacket does not come cheap, so get the bang for the buck.
2. Materials - Leather jackets are made of tanned animal hide and thus next thing on the consideration list is the type of skin and the grain of leather. There are 4 popular skins used for leather jackets - cow, calf, goat and lamb - in order of increasing preference (easy right?).
Bovine or cow leather is great on durability but is tough and less flexible and thus hard to wear. Calfskin is a very good alternative as it is softer, fine grained and more pliable. Goatskin is both durable and supple at the same time and noticeable by its pebbly feel but the crown goes to lambskin as far as smoothness and lightness go, even though it might not be super durable (but hey, we are only going to wear them to parties right?). Lambskin makes the most versatile and luxurious jackets and celebrities are in love with them.
Once the animal has been chosen, comes the grain of leather - highly Masters in Leather Design kind of stuff, but to tell you simply - top grain leather is the best version to buy as it takes the whole outer hide of the animal but is smoothened, made waterproof and accentuated for flexibility. All top designers and brands work with top grain leather.
A word on PVC - PVC is the cheapest and most durable alternative to all kinds of leather and you can see it practically seizing the genuine leather market these days, be it jackets or handbags. Though they will definitely reduce your upfront jacket buying cost, it wouldn't last, wouldn't keep you warm enough and will mostly come with uncomplimentary looking linings and hardware. Hence, as with all little luxuries, better to save and invest in genuine leather. And I'll give you some great affordable options at the end of this post.
3. Fit - I cannot stress this enough, the fit of a leather jacket can make it or break it for you. Spend a good amount of time trying them feeling them on you before you make a pick. And to help you do the same, there are 2 rules to follow.
1) Start with a size smaller - Leather jackets are one of the few fashion garments that look totally sloppy oversize. Read the title of this post - a leather jacket is meant to fit you like second skin so in my opinion, get a size smaller. Chances are you will fit into it and as time passes, the leather will expand to adjust better to your frame and viola, you'll look and feel like a rockstar.
2) Choose as per your body shape - Skinny guys can happily go for tight fitter motorcycle jackets that are cinched at the waist and thus more flared up at the top that makes them look more broad-shouldered. Not so lanky guys can do much better in a bomber or racer style, i.e. straight fits that can be snug or easy-fitting.
Other ideas to get a better a jacket fit are high-cut armholes, sleeves that end at the wrist and not zipping up the jacket. Remember it takes one mistake to make a cool leather jacket look unattractive so don't rush this part.
So now to my favourite part - my personal Anna Wintour moment where I will advise you on where to get a good leather jacket for Fall/Winter 2016. 8 fantastic options - 5 under $800. Woohoo!
1. Schott NYC
because Irving Schott invented the biker jacket, the Schott Perfecto and are the highest on credence for cool as illustrated by Hollywood. They have all 3 styles available in a variety of material and color combinations here. By far your best bet.
2. Top Man
for really good quality but really affordable leather and faux leather jackets and the best pick if you are looking for something for a few seasons only. Buy them here. Most options are under $300.
3. Belstaff
a British outerwear brand with motosport heritage, great tailoring and some of the best polished leather racer options. Buy here.
4. All Saints
another British brand known for its premium leather and design-led product innovation and is worn by most modern day Britpop musicians from Stereophonics to Robbie Williams. Great for hybrid options. Buy it here.
5. Diesel
has some real nice distressed, worn-in feel leather jacket options and Diesel always does great things with hardware. Buy here.Ok now let's multiply up the dollars and see some real covetable luxe leather jackets options:
6. Rick Owens
most desirable in aesthetics and production. There are endless high-street interpretations of his technologically advanced creative take on the leather jacket. His skinny, rock and roll, high collar bikers in calfskin are the luxe pieces you will hold on to for years. $1500 and above.
 |
| Rick Owens Biker Jacket |
7. Givenchy
known for its dark, goth aesthetic, Givenchy is naturally a strong contender for top of the line leather jackets. Known for their signature roomy luxy feel, shoulder epaulettes and contrasting neoprene sleeves, you can get your hands on these made-in-Italy luxe pieces upwards of $3000.
 |
| Givenchy - Leather & Neoprene Bomber with black shearling lining |
8. Balmain
brand of the moment! Stunning details in Balmain style, lots of OTT hardware and those quilted sharp shoulders, these lustworthy leather jackets come upwards of $4000.
 |
| Balmain Quilted Sleeve Brown Biker |
You can buy all three on Mr Porter.
Your search for a perfect, made-for-you, beautiful leather jacket for this Fall should end right here. I am totally partial for a good leather jacket (as evidenced from the length of this post) and hope to see a lot of you rocking them soon!
 |
| Leather is great in windy weather! Berlin, 2012. |
P.S - ODed on a lot of Britpop while writing this post to get into the groove of things and discovered some nice 8tracks playlists like this one!
